Profoto HSS FAQ

Written by Rebecca Ahremark on . Posted in Off-camera flash

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Profoto HSS

Today, we release Profoto HSS – our new solution for the B1 Off-Camera Flash that has all of the benefits and none of the limitations. We figured you guys will have a lot of questions. Don’t worry, you will find the most common questions in the FAQ below.

NEWS:

We have created a completely new and up to date Off-Camera Flash System FAQ where we have gathered all your great questions about HSS, the B1, the brand new B2, Air TTL and Light Shaping Tools and merged them all together. Because of that, all the answers to your questions below are to be found here:  See you over there!

The new FAQ will continuously be updated. So if you have a question that isn’t answered there, leave a comment or tweet us, and we’ll insert it into the FAQ as soon as we can.

The new and complete Profoto Off-Camera Flash FAQ is here:

1) What is HSS?

See question 6.1. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

2) What is HSS used for?

See question 6.2. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

 3) How is Profoto HSS different?

See question 6.3. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

4) What products do I need to use Profoto HSS?

See question 6.4. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

5) Does it require any upgrades and can I do the upgrade myself?

See question 6.5. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

6) Are all upgrades free?

See question 6.6. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

7) Do I have to change flash tube before using Profoto HSS?

See question 6.7. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

8) Any hardware upgrades needed to use Profoto HSS?

See question 6.8. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

9) How can I see what firmware versions I have installed at the moment?

See question 6.9. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

10) Once I´ve upgraded, how do I switch to HSS Mode?

See question 6.10. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

11) What cameras does Profoto HSS work with?

See question 6.11. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

12) Can I use TTL Mode and HSS Mode at the same time?

See question 6.12. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

13)  What aperture can I use?

See question 6.13. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

14) What shutter speeds can I use?

See question 6.14. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

15)  What power outputs are available in HSS Mode?

See question 6.15. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

16) Does Profoto HSS Mode affect the battery life of the Air Remote TTL-C or the Air Remote TTL-N?

See question 6.16. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

17) Does Profoto HSS Mode affect the battery capacity of the B1 or B2?

See question 6.17. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

18) Does Profoto HSS Mode affect the lifespan of the flashtube?

See question 6.18. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

19) Is Profoto HSS the same as FP sync?

See question 6.19. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

20) Is Profoto HSS the same as HyperSync?

See question 6.20. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

21) Does it work with PocketWizard?

See question 6.21. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

22) Can I use the Air Remote TTL-C or the Air Remote TTL-N to trigger speedlights, off-camera flashes or monolights by other flash brands?

See question 6.22. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

23) Can I use the Air Remote TTL-C or the Air Remote TTL-N with other cameras than Canon respectively Nikon?

See question 6.23. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

24) Does Profoto HSS work with the Canon 1DX model?

See question 6.24. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ. 

25) Are there any known limitation when shooting with the Canon 1DX in HSS Mode??

See question 6.25. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

 26) Will you continue to develop Profoto HSS so that it will work with future, as-yet-unreleased, Canon or Nikon cameras?

See question 6.26. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

27) I am not able to upgrade my B1. What can I do?

See question 6.27. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

28) I have followed all these steps and I still don’t get it to work – what do I do?

See question 6.28. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

 29)  I have a question that is not answered in this FAQ. Where do I turn for support?

See question 6.29. in the Off-Camera Flash FAQ.

 

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Comments (281)

  • david

    |

    Excellent stuff guys.

    Reply

  • Paul Cincotta

    |

    Well done Profoto! The B1 continues to shape lighting 😉

    Reply

  • Loris

    |

    Hi
    i have upgraded may B1 and I’m trying to upgrade the air TTL-N with my mac but the button “click to start firmware update” is’nt Highlight. My usb cable is connected to AIR TTL and usb word is light with tre dot… what’s wrong?

    Reply

    • Loris

      |

      ok…
      I have disconnected all my USB peripherals (HD and wacom tablet) and now all is ok…
      fantastic christmas gift, profoto.

      Reply

      • eric

        |

        Thank you for this suggestion. Disconnecting all USB devices should be a suggestion in the instructions. For some reason this step was necessary for me when upgrading the remote, but not for either B1 firmware upgrade.

        Reply

        • Haydn

          |

          Finding your comment here has saved me several hours, thanks for posting. All firmware now updated!

          Reply

        • Jens-Linus Lundgren-Widén

          |

          Hi, This instruction is included in the FAQ that you can download on the same page as the firmware manual on My Profoto.

          We’ll take the feedback to us and see how we can make it easier to find.

          Reply

      • Cormac

        |

        Thank you Loris. I had the exact same problem and could not figure it out. Wacom pad was the prob. You are right, this should be in the instructions. I was about 30 mins trying to figure it out. Thank you:-)
        C.

        Reply

        • Ole Jørgen

          |

          Perfect. I had to unplug my wacom tablet too. Seems like the firmware upgrade program are unable to find the TTL-N if other usb are connected. As stated above, profoto; you should add this together with the note about fresh batteries.

          Reply

          • Jens-Linus Lundgren-Widén

            |

            Hi, It is included in the FAQ that you can download on the same page as the firmware manual on My Profoto.

            We’ll take the feedback to us and see how we can make it more visible.

            Reply

        • Gen Vagula

          |

          Thank you guys! I struggled for half an hour, and went to google and found this hint here. same issue, wacom tablet. now updating.

          All the best!

          Reply

      • Dennis Von Dutch

        |

        Thanks!! Disconnected my Wacom Intuos Pro and it worked like a charme!

        Reply

    • Pam Duton

      |

      I had to switch to a Windows product and it worked.

      Reply

  • Matt Korinek

    |

    Great news Profoto! Quick question: you mention that when using HSS you have to increase the power to get the same result as the flash starts to fire before the shutter opens. How much do you need to compensate by? Is the compensation dependent on any particular factors? Thanks!

    Reply

    • Bogdan

      |

      I don’t work for Profoto, but I have just tested the HSS. It’s rather disappointing. As soon as you switch to HiS on the Air-TTL(C) – you have to raise the power on the B1 by 1.5 stops to get the same result. And then it goes stop for stop. To go to 1/400th from 1/200th is a stop additionally on the B1. Tested on manual (not TTL). Maybe something is wrong with my system, though. Profoto… any word?

      Reply

      • Rebecca Ahremark

        |

        Hi Bogdan. See question 15 in our FAQ.

        Reply

        • Bogdan

          |

          Rebecca, in your FAQ it doesn’t say that you lose about 1.3 stops of the power of the strobe as soon as you switch on HiS. It only says that you have to adjust the power on the strobe stop for stop when you increase the shutter speed. You should add that, otherwise it’s misleading and a loss of 1.3 stops is quite a bit. Higher power = faster battery drainage.

          Reply

      • Rebecca Ahremark

        |

        The energy setting is directly connected to the power output of the flash. Shooting in HSS Mode means that the flash fires before the shutter is open and stops firing after it is closed. Hence, not all light hits the camera sensor, which means you will need to set the flash to a higher setting to achieve the same results. The light lost depends on the slitters sizes and shapes and it is different between camera models.

        This is a very rough approximation of the relation between the HSS and a “regular” flash:

        Canon
        Shutter HSS Regular
        1/250 7,0 6,0
        1/500 8,0
        1/1000 9,0
        1/2000 10,0

        Nikon
        Shutter HSS Regular
        1/250 8,0 7,5
        1/500 9
        1/1000 10

        Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Just select the power you want and shoot, or use it together with TTL. The additional light needed depends on many different variables and one of them is of cause the shutter speed.

      This is a very rough approximation that I received from our Service Deparment:

      Canon
      Shutter HSS Regular
      1/250 7,0 6,0
      1/500 8,0
      1/1000 9,0
      1/2000 10,0

      Nikon
      Shutter HSS Regular
      1/250 8,0 7,5
      1/500 9
      1/1000 10

      The slitter have different sizes and shapes and I will create differences between camera models.

      Reply

      • Jon

        |

        I dont understand this.. are you saying you can only shoot at 1/1000 at 10 power with nikon?

        Reply

        • Rebecca Ahremark

          |

          It was a rough estimation between the energy relation between the regular flash and a HSS flash. The light that needed to get a perfectly exposed picture will always remain the same in the example, but there are different ways to achieve that. One way is to increase the shutter speed and use more power in the flash and another way is to slow down the shutter speed and decrease the power of the flash. With this in mind both:

          • Shutter speed 1/1000 and energy setting 10
          and
          • Shutter speed 1/250 and energy setting 8,0

          Will result in a perfectly exposed picture.

          Reply

      • JH PHOTOS

        |

        Thanks for the tip i’ll see how that works out with my d800E

        Reply

  • Rchard

    |

    I updated my B1 and TTL-N remote. Was wondering in HSS is the power limited to 8-10? Seems to provide too much power at 1/500-1/1000 sync

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Richard. We added it in our FAQ. See question 15. / Rebecca Ahremark, Profoto.

      Reply

  • Paul Cincotta

    |

    I had the same issue as Loris, The on screen button (active after step 2) to update the TTL-C remote was not active until I removed several USB devices and then finally also the Wacom tablet. Had no issues with the B1 firmware upgrade.

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      If you have an Air Remote TTL-C and a MAC there’s a small, harmless bug. Please see question 5.

      Reply

  • Lárus Sigurðarson

    |

    I would be very interested in knowing, as I have two, if the B4 could also support HSS, through a firmware upgrade of course.

    Reply

  • Tim

    |

    What are my options using the B1 as I shoot with the Sony a99

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Tim. At the moment HSS only works with Air Remote TTL-C for Canon and TTL-N for Nikon. You can still use our regular Air Remote but you won’t be able to upgrade to HSS.

      Reply

      • Tim

        |

        Are there any plans to make it available for the Sony as this is becoming quite a large market for shooters

        Reply

        • Rebecca Ahremark

          |

          We don’t exclude anything and we’re looking into the possibility of making it work even with other brands in the future.

          Reply

          • Johan Sahlén

            |

            Like many others I shot with Sony A99, specially at sports and was a bit disappointed that its not working with Sonys products, have heard promises that both the TTL and the HSS would be coming for Sony, so really hope it comes soon, Sony is a growing brand right now.

            Reply

          • Lee Love

            |

            I keep trying to explain to people that Sony will always be a step children in the way of accessories and third party support. Sony makes great technology but it doesn’t have the market share or demand as Nikon and Canon. Also Sony replaces their cameras ever 18 months and this makes it very difficult for third party developers to create products.

            Reply

          • Kevin Krows

            |

            Agree with Lee on this. Sony insists on being an island of their own so I can’t believe way anyone would be interested in partnering or developing third party solutions for them.

            Reply

          • Jesse Maier

            |

            @Kevin: Sony isn’t insisting on being on an island all alone; they are simply advancing camera tech in a different direction than Canikon. It will take a few years, but Sony’s direction in the future of photography. This is the beginning of the end for DSLRs; mirrorless systems are the future.

            Reply

          • Jesse Maier

            |

            Granted, Sony is upgrading their hardware far more quickly than Canikon. However, the Sony hot-shoe is the same across the a7 series as well as the a6000, a5000, etc.

            Reply

          • Andy Schulz

            |

            With the New Sony A7RII Camera is there any Chance to See a ttl and Hss Solution for the New pro sony shooters for air Remote with the B1.

            Reply

          • Werner Kmetitsch

            |

            It was in December 15th 2014, when you wrote about the “possibility of making it work even with other Brands”. Still no announcement for SONY yet. Working with A7RII and waiting for it. Please hurry. Very sad about nothing happens 🙁

            Reply

          • Jacky

            |

            Like so many others here, I am using Sony and is dying for Air Remote TTL-S support. It speaks volume when the recurring plea of Sony Users floods over the OP…

            Reply

      • Jesse Maier

        |

        The Sony a7 Series is exploding… and Sony is quickly gaining market share.
        We need the Air Remote TTL-S for Sony. Sony has given you their blessing; the ball is in your court. Make it happen!

        Reply

  • Brian Smith

    |

    Could please get a TTL-S for Sony??? I’d love to use this with my A7R, A7S, A7II and A99…

    Reply

    • Jesus Gomez-Cortes

      |

      Hey Brian. Was surfing the web to see 3rd party strobes that are compatible with my Sony A7ii and remembered at one point last that the Sony remote was in the works. Apparently not so far. The only thing that is close is the Phottix Indra system that they promised they were making for Sony, but with no ETA and I hope Profoto does make one because in my opinion it’s a better ecosystem. You posted your message mid-December 2015. Sorry for the throwback so late.

      Reply

      • Jesse Maier

        |

        I think if Profoto doesn’t jump on board and start building for Sony as well, others will step in to fill the gap. Eventually, this will hit Profoto hard, as Canikon are going the way of Kodak.

        Reply

        • James mitchell

          |

          Has there been any development for Air Remote TTL and HSS for the Sony hot shoe please?

          Reply

          • Jens-Linus Lundgren-Widén

            |

            Hi, We cannot comment on possible product development.

            Sincerely,

            Reply

          • Aashith Shetty

            |

            I’m heavily invested( over 20K) in the profoto system and it seems a little unfair to not be updated on the direction of the company as it could possibly limit the growth of my skills. i’ve been holding on for over a year hoping for an some kind of hint, while there is another 600w TTL option out there. i know a lot of people would appreciate some useful info.

            Reply

  • Justin

    |

    I have waited the HSS firmware for B1 and finally got it. It is a good news!
    However, as Rchard indicated above, HSS power limit to 8-10 for Nikon provide too much power at the condition of 1/500 or 1/1000 in lower shutter speed level. I tested in my room the power and in 1/500 shutter speed, power indicate 8.4. In fact, this HSS update seems not perfect. In bright sunny day outdoor, power may need 8-10 for f1.4. But when I want to use f1.4 indoor, 8 to 10 power isn’t necessary at 1/320 or 1/500 at around this shutter speed level. I think power of 3-4 will be enough. I thought your HSS system would be flexible from 2 – 10 power level in more than 1/250 to 1/8000. However, your HSS has a limit to use any aperture. I wonder if I misundestood your HSS system or this HSS will be updated again as you settle something.

    I am interested in why you put a high power limit of 8-10 for more than 1/250 high speed sync.
    Looking forward to your comment.

    Thank you.

    Reply

    • Justin

      |

      Good Job! The power issue of 8-10 seems to be consisitant on all other brands of powerful strobes that offer HSS- pocket wizard with alien bees, and some of the new B1 copy cats. It must be a limitation with the hardware that a lower power speed light can work around. This is a great feature and I thank Profoto for their hard work!

      Reply

    • Mike Hussey

      |

      I can answer that for you. As you drop down in power, the flash duration gets much shorter. So if they did allow you to go below 8 power, there is a good chance you’ll end up with a stroboscopic effect on your shot, which with HSS would look like striped band or two.

      In other words, if the flash duration is 1/20,000 of a sec, or whatever, it just can’t fire them fast enough to get a smooth exposure in HSS.

      Reply

    • Felix Wu

      |

      I too hope Profoto could explain why there’s a power range limit. It’s probably like what Mike Hussey said. However I don’t think it hurts in real life shoot.. Because firstly why do you need HSS in an indoor situation? Normal flash mode should just work fine. If not, we could try turn on the modelling lamb and gel it to get the desire shutter speed/look we need.

      Reply

    • Lee Love

      |

      It sounds like there is a lot of confusion as to what HSS is and why and where you want to use this feature.

      The main purpose for HSS is to overcome the sync speeds of 1/200 1/250 on cameras without leaf shutters. Most medium format cameras have leaf shutter lenses which allow you to shoot up to 1/8000 depending on the system.

      The reason you want a faster shutter speed is primarily to kill ambient light when shooting outside. In many situations shooting at 1/250 at f22 will still not be enough to over power the sun in order to get deep blue or dark skys or backgrounds.

      So currently you have to resort to a Neutral Density filter which makes it difficult to focus. HSS solves this problem by allowing you to kill all the ambient light because of the ability to shoot at up to 1/8000.

      Remember Shutter speed only effects ambient light not the flash exposure. So HSS gives you much more control over your background exposure.

      Obviously the other purpose of HSS is to shoot at a wider aperture outdoors.

      The Profoto B1 system is a fantastic portable solution and now with HSS it is even more versatile. Its disappointing to see people complain about what is a remarkable tool we have at our disposal.

      Reply

      • Bogdan

        |

        Actually with the way Profoto implemented HSS the shutter speed DOES affect the strobe output. It’s unfortunate. Looks like it’s because it’s not implemented like PocketWizard HyperSync, but it actually works more like the flash with high speed sync when it emits a bunch of flashes. Another bad thing is that as soon as you switch to HiS on the Air TTL you have to bump up the power from the B1 by 1.3-1.5 stops while still having the shutter speed set at 1/200th. And as you go up a stop from 1/200th to 1/400 you have to adjust the strobe by 1 stop as well. So the only thing good out of the Profoto HSS implementation is being able to freeze motion. Unfortunately it doesn’t give you the advantage of Hyper Sync implemented by pocket Wizard where you can cut down the ambient and not have to change the power on the strobe. That solution vignettes, though. So not that great either.

        Reply

        • Luis Diego

          |

          Actually, it’s perfect. So let’s say I’m overpowering the ambient light at ISO200 and f/22 (and 1/200) which is a typical sunny day situation. To expose my subject, a light meter calls for 9.0 at about 1.3 m from the subject, with an octabox. Those three camera settings are working well but i crave for f/3.5 or less! No can do without ND filters. Now I can. So say I go up to 1/400, and to keep ambient light the same I dial in f/16. I will notice a 1-stop fall in subject exposure once HSS kicks in, so I go up to 10.0 to compensate. From here on, each time I double my shutter speed I loose one stop of flash power, which I compensate opening my aperture a full stop. No need to change flash power anymore. So I’ll get about the same subject and background exposure at 1/800 and f/11, 1/1600 and f/8, 1/3200 and f/5.6, 1/6400 and f/4 and 1/8000 and f/3.5. Add just one 2-stop ND filter and you can dial in 1/8000 and f/1.8. Same background and subject exposure but wide open for creative effects! love it! Now just launch a 1000Ws b1 and ND filters will be gone forever.

          Reply

        • Luis Diego

          |

          Getting amazing results with HSS! So let’s say I’m overpowering the ambient light at ISO200 and f/22 (and 1/200) which is a typical sunny day situation. To expose my subject, a light meter calls for 9.0 at about 1.3 m from the subject, with an octabox. Those three camera settings are working well but i crave for f/3.5 or or more open! No couldn’t do without ND filters. Now I can. So say I go up to 1/400, and to keep ambient light the same I dial in f/16. I will notice a 1-stop fall in subject exposure once HSS kicks in, so I go up to 10.0 to compensate. From here on, each time I double my shutter speed I loose one stop of flash power, which I compensate opening my aperture a full stop. No need to change flash power anymore. So I’ll get about the same subject and background exposure at 1/800 and f/11, 1/1600 and f/8, 1/3200 and f/5.6, 1/6400 and f/4 and 1/8000 and f/3.5. Add just one 2-stop ND filter and you can dial in 1/8000 and f/1.8. Same background and subject exposure but wide open for creative effects! love it! Now just launch a 1000Ws b1 and ND filters will be gone forever.

          Reply

          • Bogdan

            |

            1. Why are you on ISO 200 if you want to go shallow?
            2. ND filter is much better in that situation because you wouldn’t have to go to 10 on the power on the strobe because of a loss of a stop and a half (it’s more than a stop, I have tested it. It’s between 1.3 and 1.5 stops power loss when you switch to HSS). But let’s say you lose only 1 stop. The amount of shots you can take with the B1 with the power set at 9 is at least 400. The amount of shots you can take using the HSS to achieve the SAME result is about half of that (220) because you have to set the power on the strobe to 10. So for your purposes – get an ND and shoot longer. And switch to ISO 100. The implementation of HSS that Profoto did is only good if you want to go up higher with the shutter to freeze motion. A great thing to have if you need that.

            Reply

          • Luis Diego

            |

            You’re right, my example should have started with a lower ISO, sometimes I just stick to Nikon’s lower native ISO. I understand what you say about the main purpose of HSS, but I still think that is is beneficial to get rid of layers of ND filters to improve image quality and foucusing control, even if more power is drained per shot.

            Reply

  • Travis

    |

    I’ve placed an order for a B1 now that HSS is available but the 8-10 power really concerns me. Is there *any* possibility that future firmware updates will lower that range? Even if it meant compromises in other areas?

    Reply

  • david

    |

    Thank you!!!

    Reply

  • david

    |

    Very good Q&A

    Reply

  • Jakob Evers

    |

    How about the TTL-C Version A6 (Canon 1Dx) – I cant upgrade to HSS? or What?

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Yes, you will be able to upgrade to HSS.

      Reply

  • alain

    |

    I firmware upgraded B1 and the air t/l-c but I can’t get to the HSS mode, in the manual on the webiste it says, push the sync button on the air t/l-c, but there’s not such a button, what to do?

    Reply

  • alain

    |

    10) Once the upgrade is installed, how do I switch to HSS Mode?

    If you shoot with Nikon, use the camera menu to enable high speed sync. No additional settings are needed. (Consult your camera‘s manual for exact instructions.) If you shoot with Canon, press the Sync button on your Air Remote TTL-C until “HiS” is shown in the display. Then enable high speed sync on the camera.

    I do not understand where that is, because the only sync button on the machine is the sync button that swathes between first and second shutter curtain

    please help

    Reply

    • david

      |

      Turn on the airTTL controller.

      There are three button along the right edge of the display.

      The middle of those buttons is sync.

      Pressing sync will cycle between 1st — 2nd — Hi-S

      Reply

  • alain

    |

    thnx david for your quick reply.

    it’s what I did, but no HSS turned up.
    only1st & 2nd

    I must say, when I ask for firmware version, it says A6, but when I installed it, it installed properly, but when verifying it said : error occurred, I did it again, but happend very time. did it with fresh batteries, problem occurred at 50% of the verifying stage.

    Reply

  • David

    |

    Try to reflash again

    Reply

  • Roger

    |

    Updated Air Remote TTL-C easily. No issues. I have been trying to upgrade the B1 and nothing. Followed instructions and no response after inserting usb into B1. Tried removing all peripherals nothing. Have restarted my iMac several times and nothing. Any other suggestions?

    Thank you

    Reply

  • alain

    |

    failed again. what I don’t understand is why the A6 firmware says its a 4-28-2014 date?

    Reply

  • david

    |

    Hmmm

    Is that the newly released firmware?

    Worth checking.

    Reply

  • alain

    |

    Sorry man, I was wrong, I installed old stuff, just did new stuff, works like a charm!

    I bought the B1’s two years ago (or was it one year), I was disappointed that the HSS wasn’t working , but hey, it’s working now!

    thnx to your R&D!

    thanks again,
    Alain

    Reply

  • anders andersson

    |

    As some other photogs here, I can´t get the upgrade firmware to go active on my macbook. And yes, I have pulled any other usb attached to the computer. I´m a bit confused though, as you claim the cable should be a usb-usb mini A, when a usb-usb mini B is supplied with the flashes, and the hole in the air remote looks exactly like a mini B. Also, the mini A seems quite rare, as my collection of cables all are mini B, and the mini A could for instance not be found at retailers like Kjell&company.

    Reply

  • Miguel Ángel

    |

    Good night from Spain
    Great update, no problem with it. Good job Profoto
    Wished next step….lower power please
    Thank you
    Regards

    Reply

  • Carlos

    |

    Hi
    I just updated my air remote-C and one of my B1 head and everything was ok. But with my second B1 head, the “click to start firmware update” bottom isn’t Highlight.
    I have not USB peripherals, so I don’t know which is the problem. Can you help me please?
    Thanks

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Make sure you press and hold the test button for 60 seconds before the usb is connected to the B1. Hopefully that will work. Let me know if it doesn’t.

      Reply

      • Carlos

        |

        I did it several times with different cables, in the lap top, in the Imac… and it doesn’t work
        Thanks Rebecca

        Reply

        • Rebecca Ahremark

          |

          I will talk to our Service Department and get back to you as soon as possible.

          Reply

        • Rebecca Ahremark

          |

          Just to check, have you also tried to disconnecting all other USB devices such as wacom boards, speakers etc?

          Reply

          • Rebecca Ahremark

            |

            Oh, never mind, just noticed that you said “no USB peripherals” in your first question.

            It may be a hardware issue. Please contact your closest service station: http://profoto.com/int/profoto-service-stations

            Reply

          • Carlos

            |

            Hi Rebecca
            So, there is not solution?
            We can’t to reset the B1 and try it?
            Thanks

            Reply

          • carlos

            |

            I’ve just tried to install it with a PC instead a Mac and it’s the same problem: the “start firmware update” bottom isn’t Highlight.

            Reply

          • Rebecca Ahremark

            |

            No, we suspect it might be something hardware related.

            Reply

  • anders andersson

    |

    Yeah, got it to work now, too.

    Reply

  • Dan

    |

    The update on the remote (canon) was fine. The update on the head doesn’t work. I have tried 4 different USB (B) cables and 2 PC’s and 2 MACs. Something must be wrong here. Could it be a bug of some kind?
    I have followed all instructions, which are very clear. The head gives a short beep once I connect the USB cable but the “update firmware” button does not respond (both on PS and MAC) note; the Mac is brand new!

    Any tips? I am anxious to give the new functions a go!

    Reply

    • john

      |

      having same problem. updated two b1s, but the third one, nothing. tried multiple usb cables, restarting the computer multiple times, turning the b1 on and using for a flash, then turned off, removed battery, and pressed test button for 60 seconds. Also tried the 15 minute wait, and still nothing happens.

      what’s strange is the first two connected and updated almost instantly.

      Reply

      • john

        |

        I just followed up. I connect the computer/usb to another b1 I already updated, it connects instantly every time. Try the same connection (computer/usb) with the one I’m having trouble with, and nothing happens. sigh…

        Reply

      • carlos

        |

        I have the same problem. Updated the first B1 head and the Air Remote but no way to update the second head. I’ve tried everything with differents cables, 2 macs, 1 pc and nothing at all.
        I think I have to send the head to the dealer 🙁

        Reply

        • john

          |

          Update: shipped the B1 off to the service station. I just got a voicemail from service station. They upgraded the firmware. The USB cable was disconnected from inside the unit. (possibly due to shipping initially), they were able to reattach the USB and load the firmware and it’s now on it’s way back to me.

          Of course, I’m a bit disappointed that I had to incur a $40 shipping expense to mail off my B1 for a firmware upgrade. But I’m excited to get the unit back. Just hoping I don’t have to mail it off again for future firmware upgrades. Too much hassle/expense.

          Reply

          • Felix Wu

            |

            So the major panic of not being able to get B1 FW upgraded is due to the disconnected internal USB cable? LOL..It seems the product has not been thoroughly tested hence so many problems.

            Reply

          • John

            |

            This particular B1 with the disconnected internal usb, I received shortly after the model became generally available in the US. I placed a pre-order and received in Feb 2014. Hopefully it’s a kink they’ve worked out by now. the shipping charge to get a firmware update is pretty lame.

            Reply

          • Rebecca Ahremark

            |

            Hi John. I happy to hear that they were able to get it to work, and hopefully there will be no hassle next time.

            Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Dan. And you have made sure you pressed and hold the test button for 60 seconds before the usb is connected to the B1? It’s really important that you hold the button for 60 seconds or more. Otherwise it’s not going to work. Please let me know if you still have trouble after trying this.

      Reply

      • Dan

        |

        Dear Rebecca,

        Thanks for your reply! Yes, I have tried all options including holding the the the test button.
        Strangely, the head can be operated during the USB connection. The symbols on the display are vagely reradable and the power can be adjusted while connected.

        Again, I have tried several cables and both MAC as PC.
        The update of the remote was perfect, the head just shortly beebs after the connection and nothing follows.

        Is there an option to reset the head? Perhaps holding a combination of buttons to reset it?

        I can’t wait to start shooting HSS!

        I hope you have a solution..

        Many thanks, Dan

        Reply

      • Dan

        |

        Hi Rebecca,

        Yes I have pushed the test button at least 60 sec.
        Is there an option to give the B1 head a reset?

        I notice in the blog that there are more issues installing the firmware.
        Could it be a bug?

        Mnay thanks!

        Rgrds,
        Daan

        Reply

        • Rebecca Ahremark

          |

          Let me talk to our Service Department and see what might be the issue. I’ll get back to you as soon as possible.

          Reply

          • Dan

            |

            That’s great!

            Looking foreward to your info

            Rgrds,
            Dan

            Reply

          • Rebecca Ahremark

            |

            Have you also tried to disconnecting all other USB devices such as wacom boards, speakers etc?

            Otherwise, it may be a hardware issue. Please contact your closest service station: http://profoto.com/int/profoto-service-stations

            Reply

        • Lee Love

          |

          To those that are having trouble updating the B1 Head.
          DO NO PUT THE BATTERY ON THE B1

          Putting the battery on the head will cause the update not to work even if you do not turn on the head.

          I discovered the head has to be fully discharged.

          If you press the test button without the battery and you hear a beep, the firmware will not update.

          Reply

          • Dan

            |

            Dear Lee,

            I did al,l the above but still not success.
            Do you mena I should drain the battery first completely, and then disconnect the battery?

            Rgrds,
            Dan

            Reply

          • Lee Love

            |

            No I was saying you need to drain any power from the B1. Remove the battery and then hold down the test button. IF you hear a beep then the light still has power still left over.

            If you hold down the test button and do not hear a beep (without the battery connected) then the B1 should accept a firmware update.

            Reply

  • Paul Tortora

    |

    Great job Profoto… thank you. I updated my TTL-N and B1’s and had trouble with the button greyed out until I removed all USB peripherals connected to my Mac Book Pro with the exception of the Profoto. Worked well once I did that. Quick and easy. Again, thanks for living up to your promises… just made a great strobe even better.

    Reply

  • paul ross jones

    |

    hi, you say the power drops a stop every higher shutter speed .
    I shoot at f1-1.2 a lot outside and often have to be at 4000th sec of higher (without ND-ing)
    can you tell me what watt-sec’s you can get out of a single B1 units at-
    1000th, 2000th, 4000th sec on a canon?

    Cheers Paul

    Reply

  • Colin Mulcahy

    |

    Hi,

    Updates worked as designed. 🙂

    Sadly, the update for the Remote did not include a fix for the remote when it is turned off.

    Both the Canon 1DX and 5D MK III will not allow shutter speeds above their sync speeds with the remote turned off.

    Yet, if I turn on the remote and set it to HSS I can adjust the shutter speeds as needed.

    Can you please provide an open explanation for why I can’t turn off the remote and use it without removing the remote from the cameras?

    Reply

    • Felix Wu

      |

      Sadly this seems to be the glitch only with Canon DSLRs. Nikon users reported no such problem.

      Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      The reason for the reduced shutter speed is that the AirTTL hardware will constantly send a signal to the camera to enable the use of a flash, no matter if the airTTL is switched on or not. The flash signal to the camera is mandatory when using any flash equipment. When the flash signal is on, the camera software will reduce the shutter speed automatically and that is what you experience.

      If the AirTTL is removed from the hotshoe, no flash signal will be sent to the camera and you will be able to use a larger range of shutter speeds, e.g. faster than 1/200 s.

      We have identified this as an area of improvement and we are looking into the possibility to handle the flash signal in the software instead of having the functionality built into the hardware. Such solution may enable the camera to be used with fast shutter speeds when an (switched off) AirTTL is mounted in the hotshoe

      Reply

  • M.

    |

    Profoto’s amazing commitment to improving their systems for their customers is what keeps me with this company. You constantly innovate and improve and this is yet another example of Profoto excellence.

    Thank you always from a extremely satisfied professional,
    M.

    Reply

  • Ed

    |

    Could not upgrade the HSS firmware for my B1 strobe. The instructions said remove the battery, wait for 15 minutes, then plug a USB cable. I plugged in the USB cable, and nothing happened. Also tried pressing and holding the Test button for 60 seconds, then plugging in the USB cable, but to no avail. Anyone got the same problem? Please help.

    Thanks in advance,
    Ed

    Reply

  • Ed

    |

    Follow up: I tried again and this time plugging in the USB cable worked as my PC was able to recognize the B1. However, after clicking on “Click to start firmware update” I still got the same message as follows:
    “Profoto has stopped working. A problem causing the program to stop working correctly. Windows will close the program and notify you if a solution is available” Tried it on a different computer and got the same problem

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Ed. I will talk to our Service Department and get back to you as soon as possible.

      Reply

    • Dan

      |

      Hi Ed.

      Did Profoto offer you a solution?
      I just can’t get it to work…

      Reply

      • Roger

        |

        I’m on the same boat as you Dan, I’ve tried different USB cables, different computers, both Mac and Pc and nothing.

        Reply

        • Dan

          |

          Too bad to hear Roger,

          I am not to eager to send the head to Sweden as my other head is for repairs already 🙁 that one just stops working all of a sudden mid shoot.

          Do you also vaguely see the symbols on the display lit when connected? I have a triple beep once I plug it in, that’s all…

          Do hope to have it fixed soon

          Reply

          • Roger

            |

            Yes, when I plug the USB cable I hear 3 quick beeps, the display comes on very very faintly but nothing else happens.

            Hoping for a fix instead of having to send it in.

            Reply

          • daan

            |

            Hi Roger,

            Yes, we have exactly the same issue and it looks like more people do..
            If I get it fixed in some way I will let you know…
            Meanwhile we will just need to be patient I m afraid

            Rgrds,
            Dan

            Reply

          • Ed

            |

            Hi Roger. I hope I don’t have to send mine in, either. I had no problem upgrading to a new firmware the last time, so I don’t think the hardware is the culprit.

            Ed

            Reply

      • Ed

        |

        Not yet, Dan. Still waiting to hear back from Profoto.

        Ed

        Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi again Ed. Could you try it again and make sure that you wait for at least 5 minutes before the drivers are installed. It depends on how fast your computer is, but really make sure that the drivers are installed before you start to update your B1. Could you try this and get back to me?

      Reply

      • Ed

        |

        Hi Rebecca. I tried it again like you said. Still got the same message “Profoto has stopped working” 🙁

        Ed

        Reply

        • Rebecca Ahremark

          |

          Hi Ed.

          Unfortunately (after talking to our Service Department) it seems like there is something wrong that needs to corrected at your nearest service station.

          http://profoto.com/int/profoto-service-stations

          Reply

  • Daudi X

    |

    Glad to report that both the B1 & the Air Remote TTL-N upgrade went well without a hitch. I tried 3 USB cables, one worked. I did a limited test shooting TTL at 1/4000, 1/5000, 1/6000, & 1/8000. The results look awesome shooting wide open at F2.8. With a light modifier softbox & filter, the excess light was put under control. I switched to manual mode & all worked well. Basically the big gain is to have the shallow depth of field with the HSS. Love the results! Let the creatively begin!

    Reply

    • Andy Foster

      |

      Daudi, what did you use as a filter?

      Thx

      Andy

      Reply

  • Gustavo

    |

    Wicked! HSS only works with the TTL Air Remote? Profoto Air Remote not supported?
    cheers

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Yes, that’s correct. It only works with Air Remote TTL-N or TTL-C.

      Reply

  • Scott Dimond

    |

    First, thank you for your development efforts in producing the HSS firmware update. I have been waiting for this! However, I sure wish you would update the “Air Remote TTL-C” manual to document this new feature. Suggesting that the only reference material for this update is to read the FQA and the endless comments about failed firmware is inappropriate imo. You have a great new feature. Why not document it??

    As I only have the FAQs as the only source of documentation, here are my questions:

    >1) What is HSS? … With HSS, you can shoot at shutter speeds from 1/250 to 1/8000.

    Does this mean that HSS mode cannot be used under 1/250? In other words, if shooting in aperture priority, if the shutter speed selected by the camera drops before 1/250, does that mean I have to note this is occurring and then turn of Hi-S on the Air remote? Or is the Air Remote “smart” enough to detect the camera selected shutter speed and automatically disable HSS when a shutter speed below 1/250 is used?

    > 14) What shutter speeds can I use?
    All shutter speeds work in HSS Mode.

    This seems to contradict FAQ #1

    > 10) Once the upgrade is installed, how do I switch to HSS Mode?
    If you shoot with Canon, press the Sync button on your Air Remote TTL-C until “HiS” is shown in the display. Then enable high speed sync on the camera.

    What do you mean by “enable high speed sync on the camera”? With Canon EX flashes, the switch to high speed sync is done on the flash head. I can find no camera setting to enable high speed sync? I have searched the 5D MIII manual and can find no reference to such a setting.

    Would it not just be better to document in an update to the Air Remote manual on how to use the feature instead of forcing your customers to obtain information via comments on a FAQ post?

    Reply

    • Patric Nadeau

      |

      Does this mean that HSS mode cannot be used under 1/250? In other words, if shooting in aperture priority, if the shutter speed selected by the camera drops before 1/250

      Not sure about Canon, but on my nikon camera, the remote switch itself from “normal” to “HiS” when neyond 1/250 and vice versa, so I can put it in A mode and just not worry about it.

      Reply

    • Kevin Krows

      |

      Go into your camera settings and look for “External Speedlight Control”. Make sure it is set to “Auto”. Auto is what will allow your camera to shoot in HSS mode. It’s in your camera user manual under External Speedlight Control.

      Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Scott.

      First of all thank you for your feedback. We really appreciate that. I will try to reply your questions.

      1. As for Nikon this automatically set by the camera so the Air Remote don’t need to be smart. For Canon The Air Remote is not “smart” and the user needs to change from the HSS mode manually.

      The HSS mode works on all shutter speeds also below 1/250 and the user do not necessary need to change to 1st sync to get the flash. But when longer shutter speeds than 1/250 are used in HSS mode the flash will have a very long flash duration compered to if 1st sync is selected. For stop motions under 1/250 1st sync is recommended, for motion blur under 1/250 HSS sync is recommended.

      14. Yes. All shutters speeds works, and you are correct that it contradicts with FAQ #1. We will change that.

      10. I think it’s called External Speedlight Control. But to be sure, have a look in your Manual. You can also press the Sync button on your Air Remote TTL-C until “HiS” is shown in the display.

      And thank your for your feedback regarding the FAQ. We will take this in consideration.

      Reply

  • david

    |

    good point

    Reply

  • everett

    |

    @Scott Dimond:

    If you use the English manual of your 5D Mark III see page 190 – 196 (Setting The Flash). It’s all there. I’m amazed how many people own expensive equipment but apparently don’t know the basics.

    When using shutter speeds within the sync speed limits you don’t need HSS.

    Reply

  • Zoltan

    |

    I am very excited about this upgrade. However, TTL does not seem to work after a successful download and installation of the software upgrade on the devices (the upgrade was successful). I would appreciate any advice or idea how I could make the TTL work.

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      If you shoot with Nikon, use the camera menu to enable high speed sync. No additional settings are needed. (Consult your camera‘s manual for exact instructions.) If you shoot with Canon, press the Sync button on your Air Remote TTL-C until “HiS” is shown in the display.

      Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Make sure that your Mode on your remote is set to TTL.

      Reply

      • Zoltan

        |

        I shoot with Canon 5D MkIII and I changed its internal setting to HSS, Air remote is also showing HiS. I tried in Av, Tv and Manual, with low and hi ISO setting, I always get blown out images. I replaced the batteries in the Air Remote – nothing seems to help, in Av mode e.g. I get low shutter speeds although the image is clearly over exposed.

        Reply

        • Felix Wu

          |

          Did you zero the flash compensation in your camera body? And did you check the TTL energy ratio is also 0.0?

          Reply

          • Zoltan

            |

            I did everything as you said but it did not work. Finally I went back to my dealer and we re-downloaded the software on both the heads and the remote, with Windows 8. I does work now.
            Good job. It is great that Profoto listened to the crowd and got this update out.

            Reply

  • Kevin Krows

    |

    For those having difficulty with their USB connections to their B1’s or TTL-C/N transmitters I would suggest that you disconnect all usb devices (except your mouse) and then cold restart your computer. When you connect your B1’s or TTL-C/N allow your computer enough time to recognize and install your computer systems device drivers. Once done, you should not have any issues connecting and installing the firmware.

    Reply

    • Andy Foster

      |

      Kevin,

      This is exactly what I did to get it to work, the Nikon remote went straight through then I had a problem with the B1s, I stripped everything out but no joy. I then restarted and tried again, and they both upgraded no problem.

      Reply

  • Mark Hamilton

    |

    Upgraded my B1 to shoot HSS.
    Kick me if I’m missing something, TTL -C set to HIS, mode TTL
    Aperture f2.0 shutter speed 1/2000 sec. B1 fires at a power output of 7 and the resulting images are grossly over exposed.
    Again am I missing something ?

    Reply

    • Kevin Krows

      |

      What mode are you shooting in? Av, Tv, or manual?

      ISO?

      If manual, switch to Av. What shutter are you getting (ambient measurement). What happens if you lower your ISO? What happens when you change from f2 to f2.8??

      Guess what I’m suggesting is that you play around a bit with your settings on your camera to find your answer. Let us know your discovery.

      Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      To ensure a perfect exposure and a stable flash pulse, the B1 uses only the upper part of its power range when in HSS Mode. That is 7.0-10.0 for Canon and 8.0-10.0 for Nikon.

      In this case, your TTL wants to go lower, but it’s not allowed to due to the fact that HSS only allows power from 7 and above. If you want to reduce exposure, simply decrease the shutter speed on your camera or decrease ISO if possible.

      Reply

  • Dan

    |

    Hi Rebecca,

    If I tried to update the B1 via my Windows (8) PC, I get a notification that the driver is not available. Windows tells me that the system was unable to register the device’s driver.
    Could it be that there is a bug in the driver or is it possible to get a separate driver file thru Profoto?

    Thanks!

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      We are looking into that. Is it possible for you to try with a different computer that doesn’t have Windows 8?

      Reply

  • Dan

    |

    I will give it a try this evening and let you know asap

    Reply

  • Dan

    |

    Rebecca, tried the 3rd windows ps (7) and again no drivers recognized.
    I contacted calumet an mamya here in the netherlads and they dont know either….

    Reply

    • Vladimir

      |

      Hi Dan,

      I had the same issue with Win7, couldn’t find the driver and didn’t know where to get it from. Automatic search (update) didn’t help either. I unplugged B1, plugged it back, reboot, re-plugged again, and by the time I was searching this issue over internet, the driver has been installed… from somewhere… 🙂 I’ll check which exactly file is used by driver now.

      Rebecca,
      Might be having an external driver will help as so many peple experience the same issue?

      Kind regards,
      Vladimir

      Reply

      • Vladimir

        |

        Dan,

        I’ve connected my B1 and looking at the drivers’ properties, there are three files it’s refered to:
        C:\Windows\system32\Drivers\winusb.sys
        C:\Windows\system32\WdfCoInstaller01009.dll
        C:\Windows\system32\WinUSBCoInstaller2.dll

        I might be wrong, but it seems like B1 (FW upgade package) does not install its drivers and uses system ones…not sure, need to check on another windows.

        Could you please check if you have those files in the mentioned directories?

        Thank you,
        Vladimir

        Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Dan.

      Unfortunately (after talking to our Service Department) it seems like there is something wrong that needs to corrected at your nearest service station.

      http://profoto.com/int/profoto-service-stations

      Reply

  • Dan

    |

    dear Vladimir, I tried your tips but it did not work. I do have all three mentioned files you asked me to look for.
    I have no clue how to fix this issue….

    Reply

  • Kelvin

    |

    There seem to be a problem trying to update the B1 firmware if you’re a mac user. Apparent the B1 head gives 3 beeps signifying that it recognises that it’s plugged into a computer. However both my Macbook Pro and Mac Pro desktop are unable to detect the B1 head. I’ve followed the instructions given on the update application but to no avail.

    Profoto, pls have this issue rectified asap. Thanks.

    Reply

    • Felix

      |

      That’s interesting because it worked smoothly with my Mac and I had both flash and trigger installed without any glitch.

      Reply

      • Kelvin

        |

        Hi Felix, I got in touch with Profoto Singapore and they mentioned that this is a common complain amongst some Mac users in Singapore. I was successful in updating one of my two B1s with my mac pro along with the Air TTL-N remote. Could this be a case of unstable firmware update application?

        Reply

        • Patrick

          |

          Dear Kelvin, have you been successful in updating both your B1 Firmware?
          If you still have difficulty, do contact Profoto Singapore, they should be able to assist you.

          Reply

  • Dan

    |

    It looks as if Profoto has produced a number of B1 head without the USM identifier pre-defined during production.
    The only fix would be if Profoto would supply a separate driver file I think.

    Very sad I cannot use HSS….

    Reply

  • everett

    |

    In addition to the drivers mentioned by Vladimir there’s also an oemxxx.inf driverfile for the B1. “xxx” in the filename represents a three digit number (or at least this is the case on my computer and this might be different on yours depending the number of devices and drivers that have been installed on your system).

    You can check on your Windows PC (sorry Mac users) by using regedit and then do a simple search for “Profoto”. Press F3 to skip through all the results until you come across an entry that reads “oemxxx.inf”. The file will be located in the c:\windows\inf directory. You can open it with the texteditor for examination.

    WARNING – CAUTION: you DON’T wanna mess with your registry. So don’t make any changes or your Windows installation could be toast!!!

    The .inf-file should look similar to this (I’ve x-ed out a few numbers):

    [Strings]

    DeviceName = “B1 500 AirTTL”
    VendorID = “VID_28B3”
    ProductID = “PID_0401”
    DeviceGUID = “{0F30B006-5821-43A3-xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx}”
    DeviceClassGUID = “{88BAE032-5A81-49f0-xxxxxxxxxxxxxx}”
    Date = “10/02/2014”

    ProviderName = “Profoto AB”
    WinUSB_SvcDesc = “WinUSB Driver Service”
    DiskName = “Profoto (WinUSB) Device Install Disk”
    ClassName = “Profoto (WinUSB) devices”

    ; ====================== Version ======================

    [Version]
    DriverVer = %Date%
    Signature = “$Windows NT$”
    Class = %ClassName%
    ClassGuid = %DeviceClassGUID%
    Provider = %ProviderName%
    CatalogFile = b1_500_AirTTL.cat

    ; =================== Class section ===================

    ; Since the device is not a standard USB device, we define a new class for it.
    [ClassInstall32]
    Addreg = WinUSBDeviceClassReg

    [WinUSBDeviceClassReg]
    HKR,,,0,%ClassName%
    ; -20 is for the USB icon
    HKR,,Icon,,-20

    ; =========== Manufacturer/Models sections ============

    [Manufacturer]
    %ProviderName% = libusbDevice_WinUSB,NTx86,NTamd64

    [libusbDevice_WinUSB.NTx86]
    %DeviceName% = USB_Install, USB\%VendorID%&%ProductID%

    [libusbDevice_WinUSB.NTamd64]
    %DeviceName% = USB_Install, USB\%VendorID%&%ProductID%

    ; ==================== Installation ===================

    ; The Include and Needs directives in the USB_Install section are required for
    ; installing WinUSB on Windows Vista systems. Windows XP systems ignore these
    ; directives. These directives should not be modified.
    [USB_Install]
    Include=winusb.inf
    Needs=WINUSB.NT

    ; The Include directive in the USB_Install.Services section includes the system-
    ; supplied INF for WinUSB. This INF is installed by the WinUSB co-installer if
    ; it is not already on the target system. The AddService directive specifies
    ; WinUsb.sys as the device’s function driver. These directives should not be
    ; modified.
    [USB_Install.Services]
    Include=winusb.inf
    AddService=WinUSB,0x00000002,WinUSB_ServiceInstall

    ; The WinUSB_ServiceInstall section contains the data for installing WinUsb.sys
    ; as a service. This section should not be modified.
    [WinUSB_ServiceInstall]
    DisplayName = %WinUSB_SvcDesc%
    ServiceType = 1
    StartType = 3
    ErrorControl = 1
    ServiceBinary = %12%\WinUSB.sys

    ; The KmdfService directive installs WinUsb.sys as a kernel-mode service. The
    ; referenced WinUSB_Install section specifies the KMDF library version.
    ; Usually, the version can be derived from the WdfCoInstallerxxyyy.dll with
    ; xx = major, yyy = minor
    [USB_Install.Wdf]
    KmdfService=WINUSB, WinUsb_Install

    [WinUSB_Install]
    KmdfLibraryVersion=1.9

    ; USB_Install.HW is the key section in the INF. It specifies the device
    ; interface globally unique identifier (GUID) for your device. The AddReg
    ; directive puts the interface GUID in a standard registry value. When
    ; WinUsb.sys is loaded as the device’s function driver, it reads the registry
    ; value and uses the specified GUID to represent the device interface. You
    ; should replace the GUID in this example with one that you create specifically
    ; for your device. If the protocols for the device change, you should create a
    ; new device interface GUID.
    [USB_Install.HW]
    AddReg=Dev_AddReg

    [Dev_AddReg]
    HKR,,DeviceInterfaceGUIDs,0x10000,%DeviceGUID%

    ; The USB_Install.CoInstallers section, including the referenced AddReg and
    ; CopyFiles sections, contains data and instructions to install the WinUSB and
    ; KMDF co installers and associate them with the device. Most USB devices can
    ; use these sections and directives without modification.
    [USB_Install.CoInstallers]
    AddReg=CoInstallers_AddReg
    CopyFiles=CoInstallers_CopyFiles

    [CoInstallers_AddReg]
    HKR,,CoInstallers32,0x00010000,”WdfCoInstaller01009.dll,WdfCoInstaller”,”WinUSBCoInstaller2.dll”

    [CoInstallers_CopyFiles]
    WinUSBCoInstaller2.dll
    WdfCoInstaller01009.dll

    [DestinationDirs]
    CoInstallers_CopyFiles=11

    ; =============== Source Media Section ================

    ; The x86 and x64 versions of Windows have separate co installers. This example
    ; stores them on the installation disk in folders that are named x86 and amd64
    [SourceDisksNames]
    1 = %DiskName%,,,\x86
    2 = %DiskName%,,,\amd64

    [SourceDisksFiles.x86]
    WinUSBCoInstaller2.dll=1
    WdfCoInstaller01009.dll=1

    [SourceDisksFiles.amd64]
    WinUSBCoInstaller2.dll=2
    WdfCoInstaller01009.dll=2

    Reply

  • Dan

    |

    Dear Profoto,

    Can you please update the installer and publish it on your site?
    Perhaps a separate driver file will fix it?

    Thanks!@

    Reply

  • Michael

    |

    Hi

    Frustrated!!!!!. After waiting so long for this update only to find it won’t load.

    I have disconnected everything from computer. Tried a second computer. Waited 20min plus. As soon as I “Click to start firmware update” I get the message “Profoto has stopped working” and I need to close the Profoto update page.

    The update on the TTL-C worked no problem.

    Reply

    • Ed

      |

      Hi Michael,

      That’s the exact problem that I have been having. Got the same message “Profoto has stopped working”

      Ed

      Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Michael.

      Unfortunately (after talking to our Service Department) it seems like there is something wrong that needs to corrected at your nearest service station.

      http://profoto.com/int/profoto-service-stations

      Reply

      • Michael

        |

        Unfortunately not to many service stations in South Africa. All I can say is I am really disappointed. Hopefully Profoto has a solution for us that are a bit out in the sticks.

        Reply

  • Dan

    |

    So am I Michael,

    The last tip I got to wait 12 hours having the head without batteries. What is next?
    This will be the last of the 2 heads I have to return to Profoto. I am already waiting for news about my other head with just stopped working…
    Very disappointing indeed.
    Profoto should act wise and have my set replaced by proper working ones…
    The set is not even a year old and I just have troubles.

    The service station won’t help me either and say it is up to Profoto to decide what’s next.

    Meantime I have jobs to do without my gear!!

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Dan.

      We will be in touch with you regarding this matter.

      Best regards
      Rebecca Ahremark

      Reply

      • Roger

        |

        Hi Rebecca

        Will you be posting an update to the FAQ page or will you be sending out individual emails. I too find myself in that group unable to upgrade the firmware. I have tried 4 different computers (2 macs and 2 PCs). When I plug the B1 to a PC, I get this message

        “One of the USB devices attached to this computer has malfunctioned, and Windows does not recognize it.”

        I hope there’s a solution soon. Thank you for all your help.

        Reply

        • Rebecca Ahremark

          |

          Hi Roger.

          I’ve made some changes in the FAQ. See question 27-29. If you still have a problem after going through all these steps, contact your local service station for help.

          Reply

  • Stian Schløsser Møller

    |

    Will it be possible to downgrade the firmware to its original state if the hss firmware update fails? I am worried that I will have a update failure after reading all this comments…

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Stian.

      If there is a problem with your installation you can always try again until the download works properly. If it doesn’t work at all after going through all our steps in number 27 in our FAQ, you can send the B1 to Service, which is covered by warranty. The new firmware has a lot of bug fixes and is more stable for some camera models, so there is no reason to downgrade the B1 to an older Firmware.

      Reply

      • Stian Schløsser Møller

        |

        Ok, thanks, Rebecca. I will try the upgrade then. Will let you know if it worked or not.

        Reply

        • Stian Schløsser Møller

          |

          It took a while before I updated the firmware on the Air Remote TTL-C and the B1 Off-Camera Flash, but I today I took the plunge and finally did it. I did some test shots after the upgrade, and it seems that it works like a charm!

          I had to be sure that I saw three dots on the remote and that I heard three beeps on the flash before I startet the update. On the remote I didnt see the dots them the first time, so I had to I disconnect and connect the USB cable to see them. Speaking of USB, before I updated the flash I disconnected all USB peripherials and took I restart, just to be on the safe side. I didnt do this when updating the remote.

          I have to do a real photo shoot before I can conclude, but this seems very promising.

          Reply

  • Patrick

    |

    MAJOR TTL EXPOSURE ISSUES BOTH AT/BELOW NATIVE SYNC SPEED AND ALSO IN HSS MODE WITH AIR-TTLn and B1-500 AIR TTL!
    IS IT POSSIBLE TO DOWNGRADE MY FIRMWARE SO THE B1 WORKS AGAIN?

    I am a Nikon user and was pretty excited about upgrading my Air-TTLn and B1-Air to enable high speed sync. The firmware update on both the Air-TTL and B1 itself went without a hitch however now I am having major issues both in HSS mode and in normal/native sync speed modes when shooting with the flash in TTL mode.
    I have tested the Air-Remote TTLn and B1 with both a Nikon D800 (listed on your HSS camera compatibility chart as “ok”) and a Nikon D3 (not on the list, but the D3s is).

    With the D800 shooting in TTL mode & non HSS when I adjust the exposure on the Air-Remote it appears to work and it shows that adjustment as a +1.0 or whatever on the back of the B1, but if you wait until the +1.0 goes away it shows that the original flash output hasn’t changed at all and if you take a photo no matter how you adjust the exposure it is always the same.
    (Interestingly although the D800s maximum native sync speed is 1/200th the B1 doesn’t automatically show it has switched into HSS mode until you go to 1/400th of a second or faster. Behaviour at 1/250th and 1/320th is exactly the same as at 1/200th or below, as described above).

    When I shoot in TTL and HSS mode (1/400th of a second or faster on the D800) no matter what I do I can’t change the exposure to anything other than 8.0. I understand from point 15 that 8.0 is the minimum output in HSS but I CAN’T GO ABOVE 8.0 IN TTL EITHER. IE THE FLASH ONLY HAS ONE POWER SETTING WHEN SHOOTING IN TTL & HSS. NOT VERY USEFUL. Again it appears to adjust the exposure on the Air-Remote and the B1 but if you then wait until the +1.0 or whatever disappears on the B1 the actual flash output hasn’t changed at all and the exposure isn’t any different. Ummmm……really?

    Shooting in manual and non-HSS everything works fine.

    When shooting in HSS and manual flash exposure I can go above 8.0 but not below it, which ties in with point 15. It means I may get overexposed images if the subject is reasonably close to flash but if this is the only drawback with manual HSS I can live with it.

    With the D3 I cannot adjust the exposure in TTL mode whether I am shooting in HSS mode or at one of the camera’s native sync speeds (up to and including 1/250th). I can adjust up to +/- 2.0 on the Air Remote but it never changes the indicated output on the B1 or the exposure itself. Ie I have one exposure to choose from. In manual mode at normal sync speeds the unit works fine, in HSS mode with manual flash again I can control the exposure perfectly but the minimum output is 8.0.

    So to sum up, since upgrading to the new firmware I no longer have any control over exposure in TTL mode whether I shoot in HSS or at my camera’s native sync speed. If I set the B1 to manual I can control the exposure perfectly in non-HSS, in HSS I can control the exposure perfectly but the minimum output is 8.0.

    This may be a temporary bug but effectively WHAT THIS FIRMWARE UPGRADE HAS DONE IS TAKE THE TTL OUT OF THE B1-500 AIR TTL.
    PROFOTO, CAN I PLEASE HAVE MY TTL BACK?

    Reply

  • Patrick

    |

    Actually, my summary of the problems with the new firmware upgrade weren’t completely accurate. Let me try again…

    “So to sum up, since upgrading to the new firmware I no longer have any control over exposure in TTL mode whether I shoot in HSS or at my camera’s native sync speed. This is true for both my cameras, the D800 and the D3. If I set the B1 to manual I can control the exposure perfectly in non-HSS with either camera. With the D3 in HSS I can control the exposure perfectly but the minimum output is 8.0. With the D800 in HSS mode no matter what I can do the only flash output I can select is 8.0.
    In short…lame-o!!”

    Reply

    • Stefan

      |

      Same here with the Nikon D810.

      -“I no longer have any control over exposure in TTL mode whether I shoot in HSS or at my camera’s native sync speed”

      Example: If I set it to -1 on the remote in TTL it still give me the exact same expoure. I guess it has to do with the minimum output? Or I do something wrong….

      Reply

      • david

        |

        do you have multiple lights?

        the controller adjustment sets the ratio between lights

        the controller adjustment is no FEC, that is set via the body.

        so, with only one light the controller adjustment will do nothing.

        Reply

        • Stefan Isaksson

          |

          No I don´t. Only one. Thanks, now I got it! I use the camera instead. Think I got confused since the FEC on camera did´t work when i tried it. But I was in HSS mode and that´s locked to power output of 8 or higher on Nikon what I understand. Thank you again for clarification!

          Reply

  • Raul Aragão

    |

    Hello guys! I have upgraded may B1 and I’m trying to upgrade the air TTL-N with my mac but the button “click to start firmware update” isn’t Highlighted. My usb cable is connected to AIR TTL and usb word is lighted.

    No peripherals. Rebooted my computer and nothing! =/

    Reply

    • Stefan

      |

      I had the exact same problem. When I removed all the other USB peripherals and only had the Air TTL connected it solved the problem for me. I guess it has something to do with the USB connections on the mac.

      Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Raul. Have you been able to get it to work?

      Reply

      • Raul Aragão

        |

        Hello Rebecca.

        No, its not working. Unplugged everything and tried again. Nothing happen =/

        Reply

  • Will

    |

    Having a issue with my batteries since the update. Charger shows full charge, battery shows full charge but on the display of the B1 it shows 1 bar missing and seems to EAT through the battery extremely quick!! Any idea on this? Anyone else having this issue?

    Reply

    • david

      |

      the flash has to work harder for HSS, so the battery will drain quicker than if using a non-HSS mode.

      there is nothing wrong with you battery.

      Reply

      • will

        |

        I am aware that it will drain faster since it is using more power, but after a full chatge it shows on the head one line down and after a few shots it will start blinking but I believe it’s just a false reading on head because when I remove the battery it shows one line missing even though head shows dead….?

        Reply

        • john

          |

          Same issue. Fully charged battery (less than 10 recharges on the battery, within minutes of connecting the B1 displays the batter as being one cell down. Though looking at the charge indicator on the actual battery, it’s full.

          Reply

          • Felix Wu

            |

            I guess it’s same for mine as well. Since I have a spare battery I didn’t pay much attention to it but now think of it the Flash battery indicator does show capacity dropping rather quickly from FULL to One bar less.

            Reply

    • Kevin Krows

      |

      Talked to a Profoto rep today. He indicated that there is a false battery level indicator when shooting HSS. Will be corrected with next firmware. Does not impact overall performance. I did a test with both my lights in Canon TTL/HSS 200 pops overpowering sunlight and still had one bar left. I’m satisfied it’s just a communication error.

      Reply

      • Rebecca Ahremark

        |

        Thank you Kevin, that is correct. It is a false battery level and it will be corrected with the next firmware.

        Reply

  • Andy

    |

    Got the same problem

    Reply

  • Stu

    |

    USB ports can be unstable. I just plugged my cable into another port and if that didn’t get the port recognized by the Profoto software I tried another port with Win7 Pro. Doing this I got all three B1 heads to update successfully. My new 8 core Gigabyte motherboard is, for example, completely unreliable regarding USB ports. Gigabyte has a Beta patch that sort of works. My ImagePrint dongle has to be moved repeatedly for my printer to be recognized and to work. I do not think there is anything wrong with the Profoto software. My upgrades only worked using USB-3 ports. Windows gave me the same generic error message (“Looking for a solution”) which really means that the OS has no clue why that port is not recognized.

    Reply

  • Bob Ortiz

    |

    Will rights
    Having a issue with my batteries since the update. Charger shows full charge, battery shows full charge but on the display of the B1 it shows 1 bar missing and seems to EAT through the battery extremely quick!! Any idea on this? Anyone else having this issue?

    Reply Same with me Will ,I have the Profoto b1 package its reading
    Missing 1 bar ,after a completely charge cycle .

    Reply

    • Felix Wu

      |

      On my last shoot I observed a 3bar on display once I turned on the B1, then immediately it dropped down to 2. I hope this is just a display error instead of a fast battery draining B1. The battery actually lasted a whole day of shooting! Only a few days till Profoto guys are back to the FAQ so let’s just keep enjoying the holiday! 🙂

      Reply

      • Kevin Krows

        |

        Talked to Profoto rep today. It’s a communication issue when shooting HSS that produces a false battery power level. Will be fixed with next firmware update. Does not impact overall battery performance. Did a test shoot with both my lights in Canon TTL/HSS 200 pops and one bar left. I’m satisfied that it’s a false reading.

        Reply

        • Felix Wu

          |

          Thanks Kevin for verifying. Can’t wait to bring my lights out shooting once holiday is over! Pop pop pop!

          Reply

  • aldy

    |

    please make for sony .so i can use my a7r

    Reply

  • Michael

    |

    I couldn’t upload the new firmware so took the light to the service centre (who were excellent). They had to replace one of the boards and they then did the firmware upgrade. The HSS now works (not as well as expected, but more on that later), but I cannot get the light to work on HSS below power level seven. I can turn it below seven using the remote of on the light, but it just resets itself to seven. It works perfectly in normal manual mode, but with the power level below 7, as soon as I change to HSS, it resets to power level 7. Anyone else having this issue?

    Regarding the efficiency of my B1’s, with a beauty dish on, with the subject 1m from the dish, I cannot seem to overpower the sun. At f5.6 and ss 800 I have normal exposure. I dropped ambient by going to ss1250 and tried to use the flash to light subject (set to manual at 10). I also tried dropping ambient further by changing ss to 2000 but the light output is simply not sufficient to do the job. Changing to the magnum, I was able to achieve what I wanted but the light was still had to be less than 1.5m from the subject. I find this rather disappointing as with my other light setup, I can overpower the sun with a 1.7m Octobox from about 2.5 away. Granted, those are 1000w lights, but I would expect 500w to do the job with a beauty dish 1m from subject. I would like to know if anyone else has similar issues?

    Thank you in advance.

    Reply

    • Felix Wu

      |

      With every doubling of shutter speed you are halving the output from B1. So let’s see how much power you are getting at 1/800s…with a 5D3, you have doubled sync speed twice, giving you 1/4 of B1’s maximum power = 125ws. Then with a beauty dish on you lose about another stop, leaving 62.5ws max power at your disposal.

      You increased shutter speed to 1/1250, reduced flash output by nearly half again, which is actually worsening your ability to overpower the sun. You then further dropped the power to another stop by going 1/2000s. Now you have about 20ws at full power! What are you trying to overpower with such a weak output again?

      You should have set ISO to 50, used magnum reflector if you want to HSS on a sunny day. Even then you can’t raise your shutter too fast in order to find a happy medium between flash power and ambient light/DOF. Keep in mind HSS is really a compromise, making your flash work multiple times as hard as you go over sync speed.

      Reply

      • Michael

        |

        Thanks Felix. That makes sense.

        Reply

  • Kevin Krows

    |

    Power level 7-10 on Canon and 8-10 on Nikon is by design.

    Your overpowering the sun issue seems rather odd. Are you in HSS / TTL on your lights and then using exposure comp and flash comp in your camera settings? What camera brand/model are you using?

    Reply

    • Michael

      |

      Thanks Kevin. I now understand that HSS is limited 7-10 power settings.

      Regarding your questions overpowering the sun, I am using a Canon 5D111. Camera setting is on manual, as is the B1. In the example I used, B1 at full power (10) places 1m from subject with beauty dish. camera set at f5.6, ss 1/1250, ISO 100. Correct exposure on ambient was 1/800 at f5.6. I tried dropping ambient progressively all the way to 1/2000 expecting that the flash would have sufficient power to light the subject and eliminate the shadows cast by the sun. But with beauty dish on, the B1 simply did not have the ability to light the subject properly. The result at 1/2000 is an under posed subject with the hard shadows cast by the sun still present.

      Reply

      • Kevin Krows

        |

        Can I suggest that you use TTL / HSS on the B1 and then use Av mode on your camera. Then, use your exposure comp to control the ambient and your flash exposure comp to control the light (B1). Do you get the same results vs shooting EVERYTHING in manual? Based on the numbers you provided, EC= -1.3 FEC=0 stops at f5.6. What happens when you move FEC from 0 to +1??? Any better?

        No doubt, you are testing the outer boundaries of the B1 and HSS when trying to overpower the sun. Even more so by using a beauty dish (white or silver) and at f5.6.

        Reply

        • Michael

          |

          Thanks for the response Kevin. I will try what you suggested, however I suspect that the outcome will be the same. If the light is firing at full power at FEC=0, going to FEC=+1 will yield the same result as the light is maxed out anyway. But I will try what you suggested and see what happens.

          I really hope that they release a 1000w version in the not to distant future, but from what I heard, that doesn’t seem to be on the cards.

          Perhaps Profoto can advice if they are working on a 1000w unit?

          Michael

          Reply

          • Kevin Krows

            |

            ” really hope that they release a 1000w version in the not to distant future, but from what I heard, that doesn’t seem to be on the cards.”

            Why don’t you just use a Magnum Reflector? It adds 1 full stop of light which effectively makes 500ws >>>>1000ws

            “however I suspect that the outcome will be the same”

            Don’t assume this. You are overriding all the technology by shooting manually. You need to rule this out. You also need to understand that you are reducing the light output by using a beauty dish. A silver dish is probably reducing the output by 1/2 stop (125ws) and the white dish by a full stop (250ws). And why is f5.6 a magic aperture? The difference between f4 and f5.6 is a full stop of light (250ws).

            If maintaining a large aperture is important then I suggest you not use HSS but rather 1st Curtain as you would normally at your sync of 1/200th (sync speed of your Mark 5D III).

            Bottom line is that HSS is a tool (option) that you can use under certain conditions. It’s not the “End All Be All” replacement setting. Testing, trial and error, picking the brains of others that are having success, and most important …..finding what works best for you is Mission Critical. Setting everything on manual and overriding the technology doesn’t really accomplish that.

            If you really need more power, I would suggest a second B1. I have two of them for that very reason as well as other creative reasons. I also have two Magnum reflectors and no longer use beauty dishes. Not only is the light produced from the Magnum more powerful it’s much more efficient. Technically, it’s not a zoom reflector but you can adjust the bean down to as little as 35 degrees. The light that is produced from the Magnum’s is simply gorgeous.

            Reply

          • Michael

            |

            Once again, thanks for your response Kevin. I will definately try your suggestion of using Av and TTL and see what happens. My brain is just failing to understand how the technology of TTL and using Av (essentially letting the camera automatically adjust the shutter speed) is going to solve the problem of an underexposed flash lit (firing at max capacity) subject But hey, I am happy to be proven wrong ????????

            I do have a magnum and it does, as you say, throw considerably more light and with the Magnum, it can overpower the sun at f5.6.

            f5.6 is not a magic number. I am just surprised that the B1 with beauty dish throws such a little light in HSS that it can’t seem to overpower the sun at this number. Maybe my expectation for this light is just too high (I have another system that I have been using for yrs and its HSS system just seems more efficient than the B1). I definately will consider getting two more B1’s, but unless there is some revelation and change in performance by using your suggestions, I will wait till there is a 1000w unit. Until then I will just use my trusted, albeit less convenient, alternative ????????

            Reply

          • Michael

            |

            BTW, the ???? above where meant to be smileys. Not too sure what happened but the ?????? would be rude lol

            Reply

          • Kevin Krows

            |

            Unprocessed RAW and JPEG’s showing you what I’m talking about:
            Feel free to download.
            https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sk5ye80w5h9q5qo/AAA6Ua9I5Pvtwyy342YThK5ra?dl=0

            1DX/ 70-200 lens Av Mode / f5.6 / EC=0 / FEC=+1

            B1 TTL/HSS Mag Reflector set at 35 degrees at 15 feet from bird house

            Shot into the sun fully back lit. Shutter 1/1600th (B1 power 8.2)

            Shot into the sun with sun exposed Shutter 1/6400th (B1 power 9.6)

            How much more extreme is there than shooting directly into the sun. You might have to pay for my cornea transplant

            Reply

          • Kevin Krows

            |

            The black half moon circle in the upper right corner is the edge of my Magnum reflector.

            Take these images into post production and I’ll bet you a case of beer you can make them 1000 better with just a few adjustments.

            Reply

          • Michael

            |

            Kevin, thanks for sending the images in dropbox.

            We have a different understanding of overpowering the sun. Your photos demonstrate exposing a subject that is backlit by the sun at close to sunset. What I am referring to as overpowering the sun is when one has a subject facing the sun (at midday for example) and then introducing the flash onto that subject so that it is the key light and it removes all the shadows on the subject cast by the sun.

            What I do find interesting with your two example is that the subject in the two photos are not equally exposed. Isn’t TTL supposed to ensure that the subject is “correctly” exposed and have constant exposure from shot to shot? But let me not head off the topic of the B1 lights.

            I will post examples of what I am referring to, but it will only be after the weekend.

            Regards
            Michael

            Reply

          • Felix Wu

            |

            While you are shooting against sun the ambient light level isn’t strong as it’s a setting sun. At mid day you will face a much harder challenge.

            Reply

          • Kevin Krows

            |

            OK… It’s mid-day here in Central Illinois and not a cloud in the sky.

            I’ve added 6 new images to the DropBox folder. Unprocessed JPEGS only this time. Only put them through Lightroom to rotate them vertically.

            There are three shots for different positions. The first is with the sun directly in front of the subject. The second is from the side, and the third is partially in back. I shot a ambient only with EC at -1 on all shots. The second shot is with the B1 with FEC set at +2 on the first two and +1 on the third.

            What else am I not understanding?

            Feel free to download.
            https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sk5ye80w5h9q5qo/AAA6Ua9I5Pvtwyy342YThK5ra?dl=0

            Reply

          • Michael

            |

            Thanks for going to all that trouble. The way I read those photos demonstrates to me that the B1 is not overpowering the sun completely. If it was, the shadows cast by the sun from the roof of the hut would be completely eliminated.

            But as I am not there to see how you are setting this up, I could be completely misinterpreting what I am seeing.

            Thanks and take care

            Reply

          • Kevin Krows

            |

            Michael:

            With all due respect, you are being overly critical and very closed minded. Every suggestion and example you seem to find something wrong with. Do you want me to set up my lights again at the same time tomorrow and use +3 FEC to erase the soft shadows cast down on one of the images?

            There is only one point I’ve been trying to make. You need to experiment, test, then test again. I’ve spent close over 3 hours of my day trying to open your mind that maybe you haven’t explored all your options or considered that, you yourself, may be doing things to limit the results by shooting manually and using a reflector that adds to the problem further. It could be that your B1 and Transmitter could not be working correctly as well.

            I think I’m done trying to be helpful. My only hope is that you will take my suggestions, as well as anyone else’s, and give them a try with a little more objectivity and a willingness to learn from those experiences.

            On to bigger and better things.

            Good Luck.

            Reply

  • Kevin Krows

    |

    BTW…. there’s also the possibility that you have something wrong with your light and/or TTL-C transmitter. You might have to rule that out as well.

    Reply

  • David Hunter

    |

    I want to buy a Sony A7 ll but there is still no Profoto support. I want to buy a Profoto B1 but there is still no Sony support. What came first, the chicken or the egg? PLEASE, Profoto, support Sony! Thanks.

    Reply

    • Kevin Krows

      |

      David – I’m sure that Profoto will expand their B1 platform to include other camera manufacturers at some point if the demand is there. Canon and Nikon own so much of the professional market space that it would be hard for me to believe that go much further but I could be wrong.

      Since Profoto doesn’t even have a TTL/HSS solution in place for Sony, why would you expect them provide support. Why would you expect Sony to provide support?

      If a dedicated remote triggering system that allows you to control the light from the camera position, supports TTL metering, and high speed sync is not important to you then you can still use third party triggers to fire the B1’s manually. You would still be able to use the features that are manually dialed in at the light such as FREEZE mode, Modeling Light, Beep Ready Signal, and so on.

      On a final note, developing a dedicated triggering system to support a particular camera manufacturer isn’t as easy as you seemingly imply (chicken/egg). So much of it is dependent on the camera manufacture’s willingness to share/license their patented TTL Metering/HSS technology. Sony has never been known to share SQUAT with anyone and is content on being an island in the ocean all by themselves. I wouldn’t get your hopes up that they will change their minds.

      If it’s Mirrorless that is floating your boat, you might want to check the specs on Profoto Product Pages to see if they support Nikon and Canon Mirrorless cameras. If they don’t, the likelihood of them supporting them in the near future is pretty good.

      Reply

      • Jesse Maier

        |

        @Kevin: Sony has already given their blessing to Profoto; the ball is in their court. Sony has no interest in being on an island by themselves. Sony is simply advancing far more rapidly than Canikon and heading in a different direction. The truth is, Sony mirrorless is the future of camera technology; this is the beginning of the end for the DSLR Era. There is no need for a flapping mirrors, prisms and large cavities inside of cameras; this is a hold over from the film days. Sure, there will still be those who cling to DSLR a decade from now, just the same as some still prefer film, but they will be in the minority.

        As for recommending Canon or Nikon mirrorless… Canikon are aeons behind Sony, Olympus, Fuji and others when it comes to mirrorless. And, what if I want to shoot full frame? What does Canikon offer? Nothing. They are going the way of Kodak.

        I’m looking forward to Profoto releasing the TTL-S for Sony. If they don’t, someone will step in and fill in the gap to ride the wave into the future. 😉

        Reply

  • Vladimir Weinstein

    |

    This is awesome. Any chance this feature is on its way for the D1’s? Or is it time I upgrade….

    Reply

  • RVN

    |

    i love this B1 500 air TTL, but it can’t work on sony in HSS and TTL mode, please include sony too on your firmware update so we can use your product in all mode with sony camera. i use sony A7 series and a99 as my camera

    Reply

  • Flippie

    |

    Good Day

    I bought a new PROFOTO B1 500 Air TTL AND Profoto Air Remote TTL-C.

    I have a problem with the Profoto Air Remote TTL-C.

    It does not work with my EOS -1DX CANON CAMERA.

    TTL does not work.

    Is there maybe a 2015 upgrade. My canon firmware version is on ver: 2.0.7. , It is the latest

    Please I need help.

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Flippie. I’ve heard that you were in contact with my colleague regarding this matter. Were you able to solve the issue?

      Reply

      • Flippie

        |

        Thank you for your fast reply. The new Profoto Air remote TTL – C was a product failure out of the box. Profoto in Cape Town replaced it for me. Every thing work 100% now.

        Thanks

        Reply

        • Rebecca Ahremark

          |

          Glad to hear that!

          Reply

  • Kevin Krows

    |

    Canon 1DX Firmware 2.0.7 was just released within the past week or so. I believe it is important that the Profoto Technical team pay close attention to firmware upgrades that Canon and Nikon make on the cameras that Profoto supports with the B1 and TTL-C/N. If you don’t, many photographers could simply upgrade their firmware on existing equipment only to discover that their B1/TTL-C/N don’t work anymore.

    Maybe they could send out product advisories letting registered users know not only what cameras the B1/TTL-C/N are compatible with the most current firmware versions that you support.

    Reply

  • jesse

    |

    It was unclear for me, whether, in order for the Air Remote TTL-C TO work with the 1DX, we need to install BOTH the 1dx upgrade and the air remote upgrade. And does it matter which comes first? Finally, should we bypass any firmware upgrade Canon provides until Profoto guarantees it will not affect updated Air Remote TTL-C?

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Jesse.

      You only have to install the HSS upgrade (version B5) for the TTL-C to make it compatible with 1DX, in the release notes we outline the camera models for which the firmware has been verified.

      I suggest you use the newest 1DX camera firmware version 2.0.7 (or the second newest 2.0.3) and the B5 version for your TTL-C (it has the 1DX upgrade included in the software). You do not need to bypass any upgrades for both devices to make it work.

      Also, do not forget to upgrade your B1 or B2 as well if you want to shoot with HSS.

      Reply

  • johan

    |

    Hi. I have the normal air remote. Not the ttl one. Can i still upgrade and use the HSS function?

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Johan. No, HSS only works with Air Remote TTL-N and Air Remote TTL-C.

      Reply

  • Ken Goodwin

    |

    Hi, I just purchased the B2 to go kit. Is the upgrade for HSS for the B1 the same for the B2?, And is the HSS compatible with the Nikon D600?
    Thank you

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Ken.

      Yes, it is the same firmware upgrade for both B1 and B2. HSS is compatible with Nikon D600.

      Reply

  • Merchet-thau

    |

    Hi, i have booth profoto b1 and B2 , i love these flash , i am a event photographer so is perfect for me but. A af assist illuminator will be a must id is possible

    Reply

  • Joerg

    |

    i have the b2 new today..but my Nikon D810 and D4 don’t allow shorter Flash sync than 1/320..
    What went wrong?

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Joerg. Have you made sure that you have upgraded your remote to the latest firmware?

      Upgrade it here: http://www.profoto.com/myprofoto

      Reply

  • Michael Fong

    |

    Hi,

    My B1s won’t turn on anymre after I updated to C6 firmware.
    Everything seemed to run smoothly on my PC.
    I had the Finished icon after update.
    My 2 B1 dont reach to anything.

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Michael.

      It seems like the upgrade did not function properly. Please try to do the upgrade once again. If the B1 still does not function properly, please contact your local Profoto Service Station for support: http://profoto.com/int/profoto-service-stations

      Reply

  • victor

    |

    hi,

    how to use air remote nikon to select rear curtain sync? i try the buttons but no avail.

    pls advise.

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Victor.

      To change sync from first to rear curtain, press flash button on left side on the camera and change sync setting with the back selection wheel.

      Reply

  • Felipe

    |

    What is up with the Air Remote not displaying actual power value? It only changes the energy in relationship to where it is currently by indicating a +/-. i.e., +1.0, +1.2 or -2.3, etc. Instead, I would have preferred that it have me the actual power value on the strobe, i.e. 7.0, 4.5, 2.0, etc.

    Even my cheap Yongnuo triggers that I used with my old Nikon flashes displayed the actual power value. Very disappointing. Any plans for an update to fix this issue?

    Reply

    • david

      |

      there is no two way communication between the controller and head.
      this lack of two way communication means the head cannot report back to the controller with its set power.
      when I first started using the B1 system I to complained about the lack of actual power
      however, in use the lack of actual power isn’t really a problem.

      Reply

      • Felipe

        |

        I feel really blind just pressing + and – on the remote. I’m sure I could get used to it but it’s disappointing to say the least that the $400 remote and $2,000+ head can’t communicate.

        Reply

        • david

          |

          but is absolute power really necessary???
          don’t get me wrong, it would be nice.

          I would like the remote to beep when all the flashes are ready, and show the battery status of each head connected, both of which require two-comms

          even a new controller wouldn’t necessary enable such feature unless Profoto built two-comms into the B1/B2 to future proof them

          Reply

        • david

          |

          ….and the option to set power in 1/10 **or** 1/3 stop

          Reply

  • Jason

    |

    i am having problems updating my firmware for the B1. it stalls at 2. click to start firmware update. i can’t click it to update.. i tried to restart, plugged it to different usb ports on the computer, unplugged all usb except for my mouse and it stilll dont’ wor.k. Please HELP. thank you,

    Reply

  • Felipe

    |

    I had the same problem on my iMac. I had to log out of my account and login as a guest user then download the update and install while in that account. Hope this helps.

    Reply

  • Felipe

    |

    I seem to be able to lower the power more in TTL mode than in manual mode. For example: In TTL, in a dimly lit room, the power is dialed down all the way, I can then press minus on the remote a couple times, then dial down the flash on the camera itself (Nikon D810) for a lower power level than I can if I try the same on manual mode. Am I doing something wrong?

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Felipe. Sorry for the late reply.

      I think this is a misunderstanding. When using the energy buttons in TTL you will adjust the light relations between the groups (if more than one group is used), the energy setting will only be adjusted by the TTL measurement. This means you are not adjusting the energy when you press the “+” and “-“ buttons in TTL mode. The change in relations will not affect the total energy output. It will only change energy provided from one group compared to the other one.

      Reply

  • Donna Schreckengost

    |

    I shoot both a Sony a99 and a77. Although I know I will not have TTL functionality, will I still have the ability for HSS using the Remote Air Transceiver with the B2 location kit?

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Donna. No, you will not. The HSS functionality only works with Canon & Nikon.

      Reply

  • gary

    |

    Hi
    I just bought the canon 5ds and I have 2 profoto b1. Every time I use it on ttl its seams to always over expose the picture. I use them on my canon 5dmark iii and everything works great. So has anybody had problem with like this. Or is there a setting the camera. Its it alway to shoot at full power of 10.
    Thanks
    gary

    Reply

    • Frank

      |

      Gary, I have a similar issue with the 5Ds. I mirrored all the settings and lenses from the 6D but the 5Ds ALWAYS over exposes. Also moved the Air TTL from one body to the other (without making changes). No matter what i try to do 5Ds blows everything out.

      Reply

    • Frank

      |

      Gary, I have a similar issue with the 5Ds. I mirrored all the settings and lenses from the 6D but the 5Ds ALWAYS over exposes. Also moved the Air TTL from one body to the other (without making changes). No matter what i try to do 5Ds blows everything out. Tested with B1 and B2. All firmware is up to date (which makes sense why it works on Canon 6D).

      Reply

  • Sean Molin

    |

    Just discovered the B1’s limitation of 8.0-10.0 only in HSS last night in the middle of a shoot. I could not for the life of me figure out what was “wrong” and I thought there was a hardware problem since my B2 doesn’t have this issue.

    Well, I switched over to the B2 and what do you know, everything operated just as expected. Then I came on the internet today to figure out what was wrong.

    Is there going to be a firmware updated to allow the B1 to operate like the B2 in using any power level in HSS? 8.0 is just WAY too much power in many of the situations I shoot, even for HSS.

    Reply

    • Rebecca Ahremark

      |

      Hi Sean.

      Profoto wants to ensure that the light output in HSS gives a perfect correct balanced light over the whole picture, that is the reason for the limitation on B1. We might extend the range in the future, but for the moment we recommend using the B2 250 AirTTL when there is need of lower output in HSS mode.

      Reply

  • Sean

    |

    Sony A7S II just announced. Where’s the progress report for TTL/HSS support for Sony? Also, I see they have a silent shooting mode which I’m assuming is an implementation of an electronic shutter. If that’s the case, perhaps this Sony would support a higher default xsync max? Nikon/Canon are current (I use all Nikon) but clearly Sony is going to dominate very soon. In one year, Sony innovates more than the other two in a decade.

    Reply

  • STILLSANDVIDEO

    |

    I agree regarding the Sony A7 series. I’m a long time Profoto user on Nikon/Canon and Medium Format. I’ve recently made the switch to the new Sony A7r2 and I’m very pleased I went to mirrorless. I’d love to see Profoto add Sony in their line up of TTL support. At their current pace of development, there is no doubt in my mind that Sony will shortly become a major contender in the industry. Come on Profoto, let’s get it done before someone else beats you to the punch.

    Reply

  • Andy schulz

    |

    Same with me , I’m a Fine Art photographer totally Switched for FF 35 To sony and I have Access To 2 B1 Units But HsS is very Important for me, no STUDIO supplier for Flash has HSS Support for sony A7rII , come on profoto be the First To Give US HSS,ttl with your B1 and B2 . Whats so difficult. Sony is already getting more and more usage under Pros!!!

    Reply

  • Franklin

    |

    Hi Rebecca, want to follow up to see if the Canon 5Ds / 5Dsr will have HSS option functional with B1/B2 Air TTL? At the time of this post, utilizing HSS on the Canon 5Ds body always over exposes. Thank you!

    Reply

    • Jens-Linus Lundgren-Widén

      |

      Hi Franklin,

      Until we have fully tested a new firmware we cannot make any promises. This said, if everything goes like planned we will release an upgrade with 5DS compatibility in October.

      Reply

  • Andy Schulz

    |

    Still Waiting for air Remote -S for Sony, Sony is Willing To Open their Interface . I’m in contact with sony pro Germany and from profoto no News for Support sony FE mount. Its the Camera of the year at dcpreview and profoto is sorry Not Cabable To deliver a HSS TTl Solution. You Would sell Tons of Remotes:()

    Reply

  • Andy Schulz

    |

    Still Waiting for air Remote -S for Sony, Sony is Willing To Open their Interface . I’m in contact with sony pro Germany and from profoto no News for Support sony FE mount. Its the Camera of the year at dcpreview

    Reply

  • Al Johnson

    |

    Hi, I just bought(10/2015) my air remote for Nikon and the b1 kit. Do I need to still update the firmware? My question is after I change my camera settings to FP 1/320 (HSS) and attached the air remote, I can’t change my shutter speed in my Nikon D810 display. Am I missing something? When I look at the B1 display, I have 1 sync and 2nd sync option only don’t see HIS option. Maybe I don’t have the current firmware?

    Reply

    • Jens-Linus Lundgren-Widén

      |

      Hi Al,

      You’ll need to update a newly purchased remote. You can do that at: profoto.com/myprofoto

      The HSS option will show in the camera display not in the B1 display.

      Sincerely,

      Reply

  • Elisabeth McKay

    |

    We just purchased the B2 Air with Nikon Transmitter. The big attraction was The HSS. I set my Nikon D800 to 1/320 FP . I wanted to test it out at a higher speed – supposedly I can go up to 1/8000. As soon as put the transmitter on the hotshoe the camera won’t allow me to go higher than 1/320. We have never shot HSS before and are just getting familiar with the B2. What are we doing wrong?

    Thanks

    Reply

    • Jens-Linus Lundgren-Widén

      |

      Hi Elisabeth,

      Welcome to the Profoto family!

      Have you updated your remote and your flash to the latest firmware? If not, please do that at http://profoto.com/myprofoto

      That should resolve the issue.

      Sincerely,

      Reply

  • Sam

    |

    I recently purchased B1s and just did the firm wear upgrades. I was a little disappointed that in order to get the upgrade software to work, (it didn’t, off the bat, the upgrade button was greyed out/ did nothing initially) I had to unplug all my USBs (including my tablet, which is annoying since this is what I use for a mouse). I had to reboot my machine, unplug all other USBs and install a track pad, just so I could activate the upgrade button on your widget. It would be nice if the widget didn’t require this, or at least explained the requirements instead of confusing new users who have to find the answer in the comments of an old post. That said, I am grateful for these comments that helped me find the solution and now everything is upgraded even though the process was not ideal..

    Reply

    • Jens-Linus Lundgren-Widén

      |

      Hi Sam,
      Thank you for your engagement in Profoto! We are aware if this procedure. However, we appreciate your input and I will let the people concerned know of your comment.

      Sincerely,

      Reply

  • Samuel Guillermo

    |

    I’m a Sony shooter. I’ve been waiting since 2014 for profoto to step up and make it compatible… I need HSS so I can buy these B1’s.

    Reply

  • subhash maheswar

    |

    Do u have any option for SONY A7RII, am working with BOWENS gemini 500 pro lights. I need HSS for SONY A7Rii. any help from profit side

    Reply

    • Jens-Linus Lundgren-Widén

      |

      Hi, So far we only have TTL and HSS for some Canon and Nikon models.

      Sincerely,

      Reply

  • Dustin

    |

    Sony A7II owner here and really want to buy a profoto B1, but without Sony TTL and HSS support it’s not going to happen. HSS is the biggest thing. I sold all my Nikon gear and couldn’t be happier. Whichever lighting company gets on board first and really develops the Sony A7 series platform is going to make a lot of money.

    DLSR is at the same point steam machines were way back before they were replaced by internal combustion. Before the steam machine died it was getting updated with all kinds of new fancy bells and whistles, but eventually lost out because it was outdated and inferior technology.

    Nikon and Canon keep updating their steam machines and they are very nice, sophisticated platforms, no doubt. They have dominated the professional market for a long time, but with the release of Sony A7II and now Sony A7RII and SII professionals are starting to ditch their steam machines and get the new internal combustion cameras. Mirrors, huge cavities, and massive size are going extinct and there is no doubt that Sony (teamed up with Ziess) is becoming a major player in the pro market. They have the edge and people are leaving the ancient (D)SLR technology behind in droves. As new, sharper glass comes out for sony more and more will leave.

    Profoto needs to get with the program and someone else is going to beat them and start soaking up the huge market share. Come one guys. Develop something for the new internal combustion engines (Sony A7xxx).

    Reply

  • Paul

    |

    I second Dustin’s comments regarding Sony. It’s mind boggling that Profoto doesn’t develop an update to include the A series. I’m another pro that switched to Sony and don’t regret it a minute. Come on Profoto, let’s get with it!

    Reply

  • Franklin

    |

    1/10 people only speak up. Several would love to see Profoto support Sony TTL/HSS. I’m chiming in to say I too would like to see this! I have x3 B1’s and 1 B2 and currently use Canon. I want to phase Canon and make the switch to Sony but absolutely need HSS.

    Can you comment on at least considering getting Profoto TTL/HSS to work with Sony? We don’t need a time frame, just hope. Hope that it’ll be available from Profoto.

    Reply

  • Patrick

    |

    Suffice it to say, one more Sony A7rii user ready to drop the $4200 on the location kit the second TTL and HSS is supported. Please!!!!!

    Reply

  • Donna

    |

    I’m right there with Paul and Franklin, being a Sony A shooter. I purchased the B2’s last summer, but am limited without TTL/HSS. Please Profoto, develop TTL/HSS for Sony so that I may compete on an even playing field.

    Reply

  • Dustin

    |

    Look Profoto. I’m an oil businessman. You either develop to stay ahead of the curve or you die of complacently. Nothing has changed in the steam machine years for the past decades, and thus complacently and willfulness ignorance to rapidly expanding technology. No offense mended, but DLSR and their third party developers have been riding a wave of jerry rigging steam machines for decades.

    This technology is dead. or at least passing over the river with coin in its eyes. Profoto is the industry standard in Pro lighting. As a business owner myself, I cannot understand the veiled and obviously BS attempt to calm poster with “hope and change” at some arbitrary future timeline than that the leading professional company can get their stuff together to attack the grown Sony A7 platform.

    I’ll be honest.. Your lazy. Maybe Incompetnemen. But at the heart of the matter you care not about your customres and are happy raking in what money is coming throguh. Innovatoin be demand as long as paychecks are sufficient for your oligarch owners..

    Reply

    • Jens-Linus Lundgren-Widén

      |

      Hi Dustin,

      Thank you for your engagement in Profoto. I will forward your comments to our product management.

      Sincerely,

      Reply

    • Dustin

      |

      I think they are just paying lip service to shut us up (“yeah we are working on it BS”) and don’t really understand how far Sony is taking mirror less technology and how much money they could make by developing this platform. They are making their money now and don’t really care about their customers or the changing dynamics in digital photography. Which is a true shame. Companies with this attitude and the lack of initiative to innovate will eventually be passed up by others. Hopefully sooner than later.

      Reply

  • Dustin

    |

    @Dustin

    Nice name. I’m in the oilfield business too.
    You either invoate or die because someone will absorb a growing market share.

    Looks like Profoto is taking the “apathetic, we’ve got our cash cow, why bother method”

    Famous last words for non-innovative companies.

    Has Profoto ever heard of Sears? JC Penney?

    There is an old saying in business. “if you are growing with the times, you are dying” We love you Profoto. Don’t regulate yourself to the dustbin of history because you were too slow to anticipate a paradigm shift in your industry.

    Reply

  • Andre

    |

    Hi, My Air remote ttl for Canon doesnt turn off…when i press the on button, a red light appear for 3 times and the remote still turned on.

    Reply

    • Jens-Linus Lundgren-Widén

      |

      Hi,

      Have you updated to the latest firmware?

      Reply

  • William Derennes

    |

    Dear Profoto team,
    First, thanks for the great work you’ve done the last year with all those new equipement. I’m Profoto customer for 8 years now and my B1’s are really amazing !
    However : using Hasselblad H4D and Sony A7rII, I’m a bit disappointed that a company like Profoto only consider Canon and Nikon to deserve the TTL function. “Not closing the door to other brand” is not a fair answer to your customer who are waiting for a long time this upgrade. Having TTL communication is not a so big deal at this stage, so …. Please move ahead !
    Best Regards
    William

    Reply

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